NUTS AND BOLTS OF MODERN PROTECTION by Patrick L Welsh
Most climbers start collecting their gear only after their first adventurous forays in the sport.
Once the inevitable urge to take the lead end of the rope comes, there is a need to buy
specialized ropes, quick draws, carabiners, nuts, hexes, cams, and occasionally the odd
specialized piece.
The need to attach yourself to the cliff safely and easily clearly is obvious from the beginning,
and has become known as protection or "pro." As you walk to the base of the crag, you plunk
your pack down, proudly rattle out the shiny gear, and then attach yourself to the rock through
various means. You trust your life to it.
Most gear was born out of ordinary items that found their way to the cliffs through ingenuity.
Others were born of truly revolutionary creativity. Today's gear goes through rigorous tests
before it ever reaches the public, and is certified safe to stake your life on (if placed
properly in good rock). We will start with the most basic part of the system, the rope.
Early ropes were made of natural fibers that came from sailing usage; manila, sisal, and hemp
were the most common. But they had no dynamic (i.e. elastic ability to dissipate energy)
quality. When a long fall would occur, the rope often broke or sheared over an edge, or
provided the climber with an abrupt and jarring stop at the end of their fall. By WWII there was
a need for light, durable, and strong rope for various military usages. The nylon rope came from
that era. It was only a matter of time before these ropes made their way into the climbing world.
The original nylon ropes were twisted groupings of three or four strands composed of smaller
strands, which were then weaved into one rope. Today, ropes are of 'kern mantle' construction,
which is a core made of thin nylon strands and encased by a smooth nylon sheath. The
advantages of the newer dynamic ropes are elasticity, and less stiffness and friction.
Your average lead climbing rope will be anywhere from 9.4-10.2 mm in diameter, and
60-70m (96-229 ft.) in length, with the 70m variety mostly being used in long multi-pitch
and mountaineering climbs. There are also many options with modern ropes; including
permanent middle mark or pattern changes mid-rope for quick identification of the
center point, dry-cover (a process that treats the sheath for water repulsion and friction
reduction), and golden-dry (where the sheath and core are treated for really wet conditions).
Carabiners are the next part of the equation. They attach the rope to other pieces of
protection. Carabiners started out as a German military tool used to attach a soldier's
carbine rifle to his body; thus the name. They have evolved into a variety of lightweight,
very strong, and utilitarian pieces of equipment made of many materials. They are used
to clip into bolts, clip the rope from the climber to the bolt (as with a quick draw, where two
carabiners are connected with a small dog-bone piece of nylon or spectra/dyneema), and
rack gear. They started out as a heavier steel version of what is sold today, but as more
specialization occurred towards climbing and reducing overall pack/gear weight, are now
as light as 1 oz and made of light-weight aircraft grade aluminum alloys.
Pitons, or "pins," are one of the older pieces of protection still used in climbing. You will see
remnants of older, antiquated models all over the world on rocks and cliffs. They are made
of chromium-molybdenum steel and titanium alloys, and are driven into cracks by a hand held
hammer. The theory behind pitons is that the softer metal molds to the contours of the seam
and harder metals make the seam conform to the shape of the pin (depending on the rock
type you are on). The piton has also given birth to many other similar tools such as RURP’s,
birdbeaks, knife blades, lost arrows, and copperheads that are generally only found in aid and
big-wall scenarios now. The “clean” climbing revolution made the use of pitons far less
widespread, as the revolutionaries preferred a more stewardship approach to climbing ; one
that did not permanently scar the rock for other ascents, but revolved around the use of
removable 'pro.'
Nuts and Hexes are known as passive protection because they don’t have any moving parts,
and rely on being slotted into a constriction and wedging into place so that they hold weight.
The early nuts were nothing more than machine nuts, still found near crags in England. They
were slung with cord for use..
Soon, companies started producing climbing specific models. Early pioneers such as Yvon
Chouniard (of later Black Diamond and Patagonia fame) and Tom Frost were some of the first
American producers of these products.
Bolts really emerged from the “sport” climbing wave of the early 80’s. They are known as fixed
protection (as they are not meant to be removable). At first, bolts were not accepted ethically in
the climbing community during the ‘60’s-80’s, but the gymnastic quality and safety of bolted
routes soon won climbers over. Bolts made it possible for climbers to push their mental and
physical limits without worrying. The maxim “If you’re not falling, you’re not trying” replaced the
old “The leader should not fall” rule. .
The spring-loaded camming device or cam appeared at roughly the same time as the early ‘80’s
sport-climbing wave. The local Lowe brothers produced a rough non-working prototype years
before the first commercially produced piece, but it was Yosemite climber and lifetime problem
solver and adventurer Ray Jardine who created the first working piece. It was called a “Friend”.
This revolutionary concept changed traditional climbing forever, making previously unprotectable
cracks safer.
Gear has come a long way in making climbing pro safer and more reliable, but it all hinges on
proper education, apprenticeship, and placement. Certified gear will always have UIAA or CEN
certification, indicating it is safe and designed for climbing generated forces.
Now that you know what’s out there, get out and have a little adventure with all that shiny stuff!
Patrick Welsh, 26, is an employee of Black Diamond and Alta Ski Lifts. He
has climbed sport, trad, and bouldered in the Wasatch and surrounding areas
for 8 years and is a born and raised Wasatch local who also skis, hikes,
long board skates, and plays percussion in local Celtic band The Joe Welsh
Band.