WALL OF THE WEEK by Patrick L Welsh
Big Cottonwood Canyon: Storm Mountain: The Salt Lake Slips
The Slips were climbed and bolted in the early ‘90’s by strong and ambitious locals such as Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan, Tony Calderone, and Libby Ellis, among others. It has a quick approach, cool air from the creek, good shade, moderate grades, and quality climbing that has made it a Wasatch rite of passage for many.
There are 9 routes here that are mostly bolted with anchors on top. You can get down with one-rope rappels or walk offs on all routes. The rock is an edgy, smooth orange, red, and white quartzite, surrounded by oaks and pines. It gets sunny in the middle of the day, but mornings, late afternoon, and evening climbing is comfortable in warmer temps.
Here are the routes:
1) Salem’s Lot: 5.10c-Four challenging bolts up the steepest, westerly most
part of the wall to a two-bolt anchor.
2) Witch Hunt: 5.10a- Four steep, fun bolts that move to a cruxy, powerful
third clip over a roof to a two-bolt anchor.
3) Abracadabra: 5.5- A trad line that begins in the chimney on the eastern
side of the wall, moves to a hand crack on the right, and around the corner
and face to the top for a walk off North
(Note: the next climbs are around the corner and moving south to north
along the wall)
4) Senseless Banter: 5.9 +- A trad line that moves up thin cracks to 1 bolt
on a triangular, mossy face. A thin crack takes you past an old piton to the
top. Small gear is suggested.
5) Forgotten Ambition: 5.9- A trad line that follows thin cracks up a
smooth, dark face. Past a small pine tree, there is a bolt, and then up to a
small corner that angles right, and then to the top.
6) Italian Arête: 5.6- 6 good bolts start on the arête, and then onto the
south face at the 4th bolt. The last 3 bolts take you to a ledge and a
two-bolt belay. There is a short second pitch that includes two bolts to a
two-bolt anchor.
7) Entre Nous: 5.8+- 6 fun, challenging bolts move up the face to the ledge
and a two-bolt anchor.
8) Thieving Magpie: 5.7- 6 fun bolts move up the face to a crux at a shield
shaped protrusion, and up to the ledge to a two bolt anchor.
9) Roll the Bones: 5.6- 6 fun bolts move up the northern most part of the
face to a more vertical section to the ledge and a two bolt anchor.
Getting There: Storm Mountain will be on your left, about two and a half miles from the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon (the one on the left). You will see a marker about “Remnants of an ancient sea,” and there is parking on the north side of the road. Walk down the canyon until you come to a trail that goes down to the banks of the creek. NOTE: The creek crossing can range from gentle ankle deep water you can walk across to violent,
torrents that would certainly sweep you away, so pay attention to recent weather. Use caution at all times. There is sometimes a Tyrolean traverse or hand line tied across the creek. If you are going to use a Tyrolean, make sure to take proper safety precautions. There have been fatalities in the past. If water is moderate, scout the safest, most calm section to cross. Just across the creek you will see an overhung alcove that houses routes 1-3. A trail that heads north through the trees takes you to routes 4-9.